Exploring a New Route on the Red Pillar

This past July, Mikayla and I found ourselves with a rare three-day window of aligned schedules and perfect weather. Our goal? To explore the Red Pillar in Strathcona Park, an area often referred to as the “Bugaboos of Vancouver Island” for its dramatic alpine spires, rugged ridges, and high-quality climbing. Known for its striking ridges and adventurous routes, this region promised an unforgettable experience—and it certainly delivered.

Paddling, Bushwhacking, and a Change of Plans

The journey began with a serene 5-kilometer paddle across Oshinow Lake. The calm waters reflected the surrounding peaks like a perfect mirror, and we felt that buzz of excitement you get at the start of any big adventure.

Originally, we had ambitious plans to complete a five-day traverse of the Ash River horseshoe. However, after an hour and a half of bushwhacking through some of the thickest undergrowth we’d ever seen, we opted for a more approachable route and set our sights on the southeast ridge of the Red Pillar. Sometimes, flexibility is the key to success in the mountains—a skill we emphasize in our Rock Climbing Skills Courses with VIBE and through tailored mental training programs offered by Vancouver Island Mountain Training.

We set up camp at the base of the southeast ridge, enjoying a buggy (but beautiful) sunset over the Beaufort Range. Watching the golden light hit the peaks reminded us why this area truly deserves its reputation as Vancouver Island’s answer to the Bugaboos—a paradise for climbers seeking adventure.

A New Line on the Southeast Ridge

The following morning, we made our way to the col at the base of the Red Pillar. After some scouting, we descended about 150m east onto clean rock slabs and found ourselves at the base of what we believe to be the southeast ridge—marked by a prominent white dyke transitioning from horizontal to vertical.

From here, the climbing unfolded beautifully:

• Pitch 1 (30m, 3rd class): A scramble up the dyke to a solid belay.

• Pitch 2 (30m, 5.8): Steep climbing over a bulge with excellent gear, finishing at a tree belay.

• Pitch 3 (30m, 5.5): A clean crack followed by a traverse left to the white dyke.

• Pitch 4 (20m): The standout pitch—a bold, exposed climb up the striking white dyke.

• Pitch 5 (150m, 3rd/4th class): A mix of grooves and cracks leading to a large slab.

• Pitch 6 (30m, 5.7): An airy step across a gully to an exposed ridge with stellar climbing.

• Pitch 7 (20m, 5.7): Solid cracks and exposed moves took us to within 50m of the summit.

Each pitch offered its own variety and excitement—steep faces, exposed ridges, and clean cracks that had us grinning at every belay. The rock quality was fantastic, and while challenging, the climb felt like a true alpine gem.

The Summit and Descent

Standing on the summit of the Red Pillar after an adventurous new route brought that incredible mix of triumph and exhaustion that makes alpine climbing so rewarding. Sweeping views of the Comox Glacier and surrounding peaks stretched in every direction, a reminder of Vancouver Island’s world-class terrain.

The descent had its own challenges (like any good adventure), but careful navigation brought us safely back to camp in time for another jaw-dropping sunset.

Building the Right Skills for Adventures Like This

Exploring this new line on the southeast ridge of the Red Pillar reinforced the importance of mental resilience and decision-making—two skills we constantly work on in our training programs at Vancouver Island Mountain Training. Whether you’re building confidence in route-finding, rope systems, or staying focused under pressure, these are the tools that allow climbers to thrive in challenging alpine environments.

If you’re inspired to take on similar objectives, our Rock Climbing Courses at VIBE provide the foundation you need for technical climbing, anchor systems, and multi-pitch efficiency.

Want to See the Full Adventure?

Check out our video recap of the climb on Instagram for an up-close look at the pitches, the terrain, and the stunning summit views.

This climb was a powerful reminder of the untapped potential in Vancouver Island’s mountains. Whether you’re chasing summits, learning new skills, or building the resilience to tackle bigger objectives, there’s no shortage of opportunities to grow and explore.

Ready to take your climbing to the next level? Join us for a course or training program and start your next adventure with confidence.