Thunderbird (22 Pitches) - Climb Mt. Rugged in the Haihte Range
Embark on an alpine climbing adventure with a guided ascent of "Thunderbird," a 22-pitch, 5.10- route on the southwest face of Mt. Rugged in the remote Haihte Range near Zeballos. This iconic climb offers bolted belay anchors, bold traditional climbing, and diverse terrain, making it one of Vancouver Island’s most ambitious alpine routes. Over two days, climbers will tackle technical pitches, bivouac on a spacious ledge, and summit this dramatic peak before descending to the trailhead.
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Difficulty: Advanced; prior multi-pitch and alpine climbing experience required
Duration: 2 days
Approach: 4 km of logging road to the base of the southwest face
Season: June - September
Group Size: Maximum of 2 participants per guide
Price:
$1200 for 1 climber
$2000 for 2 climbers
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P1 (5.6, 58m): Climb a rightward trending crack, pass a bulge, and finish on slabs to the first belay.
P2 (5.6, 55m): Steep steps lead to a slab trending left, with bolts protecting a bulge.
P3 (Low 5th, 45m): Ascend a leftward trending ramp to a belay.
P4 (5.6, 55m): Climb a right-facing corner and a steep crack, finishing on a ledge.
P5 (5.7, 60m): Long pitch up a crack and corners, passing an overlap to a groove.
P6 (4th, 40m): Traverse a ledge to reach the next belay.
P7 (5.6, 60m): Head right toward flakes, climbing above and left to a ledge and belay.
P8 (5.5, 45m): Climb a groove or arête to broken terrain and a belay.
P9 (5.8, 55m): Ascend a corner, passing cedars and a chimney, to a ledge.
P10 (5.7, 57m): Climb a groove, passing a bolt, to a steep wall and anchor.
P11 (5.6, 57m): Navigate slabs broken by small ledges, finishing on a belay ledge.
P12 (5.6, 60m): Easy climbing leads to steeper terrain near the finish.
P13 (4th, 30m): Traverse left around a wall to a scramble leading to heather ledges.
P14 (Low 5th, 55m): Climb slabs and ledges through cedar bushes to a belay.
P15 (5.8, 55m): Navigate bolts, grooves, and ledges, finishing on steep corners.
P16 (5.8, 45m): Climb an open corner, step right and left, and finish on a pinnacle.
P17 (5.8, 25m): Climb a leaning corner to the anchor below the final flake system.
P18 (5.10, 25m): Strenuous moves on a flake lead to a chimney belay.
P19 (5.6, 45m): Exposed ramp climbing leads to a ledge and belay above a step.
P20 (5.7, 50m): Traverse a crack system, step over the ridge, and belay at a horn.
P21 (5.10, 45m): Cross a gully, ascend a corner, and follow bolts to a ridge crest.
P22 (5.6, 40m): Climb a chimney to reach the summit, linking with the Walsh-Facer-Hutchinson Route.
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Included: Guide, climbing ropes, and technical equipment
Not Included: Personal climbing gear (shoes, harness, helmet), food, transportation, and bivy setup
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Fitness Level: very good physical condition required for long approaches, sustained climbing, and carrying bivy gear.
Experience Level: Advanced multi-pitch climbing and rope management skills mandatory. Climbers must demonstrate efficiency and readiness from previous guided experience.
Prerequisite: Climbers must have completed at least one guided day prior to booking this trip.
Closing Summary
"Thunderbird" on Mt. Rugged is a pinnacle achievement for experienced climbers, combining technical challenges, dramatic exposure, and unparalleled scenery. With expert guidance, bolted belay anchors, and a meticulously planned two-day itinerary, this climb promises an unforgettable alpine adventure on one of Vancouver Island’s most revered walls.
